Mitsouko

Mitsouko, inspired by Guerlain Mitsouko (1919)

Mitsouko opens with peach, but not the sugary kind: the fruit feels velvety and a little bruised, held inside a dry, woody frame. Jasmine and May rose follow quietly, adding texture more than bouquet. Underneath, patchouli and vetiver meet a cluster of spices, and Guerlain's undergrowth notes lend a damp, forest-floor shade. The overall effect is composed and grown-up, with the fruit always tied to something darker.

About the original

Jacques Guerlain created Mitsouko in 1919, and Guerlain describes it as the first fruity chypre, the perfume that introduced peach to fine perfumery. A chypre is a structure that sets fresh top notes against a mossy, woody base. The name is usually traced to the heroine of Claude Farrère's novel La Bataille. Like most perfumes of its age it has been reformulated several times, and Guerlain still sells it as eau de toilette, eau de parfum and extrait in its Les Légendaires range.

Our version

Ours is an independent eau de parfum made to evoke the same character. It is not Guerlain stock, not an official relaunch and not the original formula.

Who it suits

Wearers drawn to vintage-style perfumery will recognise the shape at once: fruit and flowers over a dark, mossy floor. It has a composed, formal manner rather than a casual one. With no sugar to round it off, the earthy base can read as old-fashioned or severe to someone used to modern fruity florals.

Related scents

• Guerlain Shalimar
• Guerlain Shalimar Philtre de Parfum
• Clinique Aromatics Elixir

Notes of the original fragrance, as published by the brand.

Top notes: Peach Accord

Heart notes: Jasmine, May Rose (rose Centifolia)

Base notes: Patchouli, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Pink Berries, Vetiver, Undergrowth Notes

Peach comes first, soft-skinned and velvety, with none of the candy sweetness of modern fruit notes.

Jasmine and May rose form the heart, kept light so that the peach still shows through.

The base is where Mitsouko spends most of its time. Patchouli and vetiver carry black pepper, cardamom and pink berries, while undergrowth notes add a smell of moss and damp leaves.

Which version of Mitsouko is this based on?

The eau de parfum, using the notes Guerlain publishes for it today. Guerlain also makes an eau de toilette and an extrait of Mitsouko.

Is Mitsouko a sweet perfume?

No. The peach is rounded rather than sugary, and the drydown is dry, woody and spicy.

What does chypre mean?

It describes a perfume built on a fresh opening over a mossy, woody base, often with patchouli. Mitsouko, from 1919, is an early and much-studied example of the style.

Inside the EU, delivery is free on orders of €49 or more. Below that it is a flat €4.99. Outside the EU, delivery is a flat €4.99 on every order. We send every order in 1 to 2 working days. It arrives in 3 to 7 days across the EU and in 7 to 14 days outside the EU. You have 14 days to return an unopened bottle.

Guerlain and Mitsouko are trademarks of their respective owners, and all rights remain with them. Parfumour is not affiliated with, endorsed by, sponsored by, or connected to Guerlain in any way, and no business relationship of any kind is implied. Our product is an original interpretation created to evoke a similar scent profile, and the trademark names are used purely for honest, descriptive comparison, so that you can quickly identify the style and fragrance family you are looking for. We make no claim to sell the original product, and we do not use the same ingredients or formula. Any similarity lies in the overall impression of the scent as interpreted by our own perfumers, not in the source materials.